Here you'll find all info needed on how to prepare for hiking in Torres del Paine in Patagonia, Chile. Even the Lonely Planet considers the trails here as some of the worlds best trekking routes. I hiked the “Q” in 2013 and did the circuit again in 2016, altogether I spent 3 weeks in the park. (Completely updated: October 2019)
Download my Torres del Paine Trekking guide!
I published all information needed to plan your trip to Chile in one clear and concise guide book based on my experience. This book includes travel guides for each region of Chile with a strong focus on Patagonia and is designed to save you a lot of time & will make your trip much easier!
Before packing make sure you have a good health & travel insurance: I used the insurance from WorldNomads which is perfect for this trekking trip as it covers also adventure activities. This article is part of a whole series of free guides for Backpacking in South America.
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2) Bus to Torres del Paine / Transportation
3) Camping in Torres del Paine & Refugios
4) Weather, Clothes & Insurance
5) Which food to take?
6) Costs to calculate
8) Which camera gear to bring?
9) Videos of my experience
10) Where to sleep in Puerto Natales
11) Where to stay inside the park
12) Guided Trekking Tours
1) Backpack & Gear
Camping is the cheapest option and I highly recommend going for this if you want the best experience (see (3) for Campsites and other options) – therefore you should bring:
a) Tent
Should be lightweight, spacious and should have aluminium poles due to the strong winds. I found the MSR tents to be very recommendable – I went with a “Hubba” and met many fellow hikers using MSR tents who were very happy with their choice, too!
b) Trekking Backpack
I recommend using a comfy hiking backpack with options to attach tent and mat – use a bigger one for the longer itineraries like the circuit or ‘Q'
>> find everything you need in the Patagonia Packing list!
What should I do with my luggage?
No worries! Almost all hotels and hostels in Puerto Natales offer the possibility to store the luggage you don't need for the trek. Of course it would be nice to also stay with them after your trek – this way you also return to a place which you are already familiar with (check my recommendation at 10).
Consider: I used 1,5 gas cans for 7 days (breakfast & dinner) for myself only. I didn't use trekking poles at all but would recommend buying some lightweight ones for the steeper parts as they give you more stability, especially when walking downhill (I was fortunate to use one from my friends for the hairy parts of the circuit!).
2) Bus to Torres del Paine / Transportation inside
The standard starting point for the park is usually the small town named Puerto Natales in Chile. Situated 112 km south of the National Park it offers regular transfers with Buses who depart from the bus terminal.
Get in
Nearly every hostel in Puerto Natales sells return tickets, but prices can vary between 15.000 (22 USD, directly at the office of the bus company inside the bus terminal) and 18.000 CLP (at the hostel). By buying a return ticket you can leave the date of return open so you can extend or shorten your stay in the park as you wish. Buses leave Puerto Natales at 7:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. and will need 2-2,5 hrs to arrive at the park entrance (Laguna Amarga).
Beside the entrance there are 2 more stops afterwards in the park: Pudeto (30-45 mins later), where you can catch the boat to Paine Grande (see below) and the Administration about 2 hours later.
Bus companies who offer daily services are: Buses Gomez, Buses Fernandez, Buses Maria José and Bus Sur (offers also a connection from Punta Arenas)
Get around
Inside the park you can take a boat which connects Pudeto and the campsite / refugio Paine Grande. The catamaran will cost you 35 US$ one way. During high season the boat leaves from Pudeto 09:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m., 4:15 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. and will take around 30 minutes – the other way it leaves at 09:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 2.30 p.m., 5:00 p.m. (bus connection) and 6:30 p.m. (bus connection).
For more info and updated schedules check the certain catamaran info page.
Another option inside the park is to take a minishuttle between the entrance and the Hotel Las Torres. When arriving at the park you just go there, hop on and pay 2.800 CLP (= 4 € / 5 USD). It takes just a few minutes. For the way back it leaves around 30-45 mins before the bus to Puerto Natales arrives at the entrance.
The 3rd option is a rather expensive one where you'd need additional transport inside the park to get to the Lago Grey Pier. From here you can take a boat to Refugio Grey for about 50000 CLP (= 64 € / 72 USD) one way. The same is possible vice versa, for both options you should book in advance. The whole service is offered by the Hotel Lago Grey so it makes sense to stay there if you want to do this.
Get out
You have again two times at the same bus stops. The early bus leaves from the Administration at 1 p.m., from Pudeto at 1:30 p.m. and from the entrance at 2:30 p.m.
The late bus leaves from the Administration at 6 p.m., from Pudeto at 7 p.m. and from the entrance (Laguna Amarga) at 7:45 p.m.
3) Camping in Torres del Paine & Refugios
I recommend using your own tent / renting a tent in Puerto Natales and camp at the campsites.
Consider: cooking is only allowed in campsites / refugios, open fire is not allowed anywhere in the park (smoking is only allowed at the cooking shelters!). The same goes for camping in general.
Refugios & Domes
A bed will be around 35-170 USD in a dorm and you have to pay extra for breakfast (around 14 USD) and sheets or bring a sleeping bag. The refugios are operated by two different companies and you need to book everything in advance especially in the high season.
The main refugios offer a range of services beside accommodation such as tent rental, meals (both to be booked in advance!), kiosks, electricity, some even have a bar and (expensive, slow) WiFi.
Refugios/Dome Tents operated by fantastico sur: Los Cuernos, El Chileno, Torres (next to Hotel Las Torres), El Frances, Seron.
Refugios operated by Vertice Patagonia: Dickson, Paine Grande, Grey
Free Campsites
Wohoo – free accommodation! Yeah that sounds good, huh? Unfortunately there are just a few and some of them might be closed. So: if you want to do one of the big treks you have to stay at paid campsites in between. The setup for a free camp is always the same: you have a rain-covered construction to cook at, places to set up your tent, toilets and water (mostly from a stream).
Please head to the official reservation system to reserve your spot at the free CONAF campsites in advance. (For now the instruction page is available in Spanish only, but you can change the language settings once you are in the reservation process). Please consider that you can stay for one night only. Reservations are mandatory.
The free campsites are:
– Campamento Torres (closed for season 2017-2018-2019-2020!!)
– Campamento Paso
– Campamento Las Carretas
– Campamento Italiano
You'll find also Britanico and Japones but they are for climbers with a certain license only.
Consider: you always have to take your garbage with you and you should wash dishes away from the stream. I highly encourage you to take this seriously and talk to fellow campers who don't respect the rules to protect the environment!
Paid Campsites
There are two kinds of paid campsites – the private campsites and the ones next to a refugio. The prices vary, usually the ones next to a refugio are more expensive. The difference between both are the facilities you can find: private campsites offer a place to cook, toilets, showers and water as well as a small shop. At the refugios you have the possibility of using the restaurant, a minimarket and sometimes you have plugs to charge the batteries of your camera.
Moreover you'll have the chance to rent tents, sleeping bags and even mats. The paid campsites are also operated by fantastico sur and Vertice Patagonia.
Important: During the last few years the visitor numbers to the park increased strongly. Therefore you need to reserve each campsite well in advance for the exact day you want to stay there. You can do so on the website of the companies. Fantastico Sur raised their prices dramatically and only offers platform camping with fullboard options for Los Cuernos & Chileno (try to avoid by using Francés and Torre Central). If you're late to the party your only chance is to book a guided trek, as those have reserved spots for their dates. Another option is to do day tours and day hikes which I highlight in this article.
Here are all campsites with prices (Vertice) – all camps from Fantastico Sur have a set camping price which ranges from 16-21 USD, depending on the season (2P Tent, per Person):
– Refugio Paine Grande, Vertice (6500 CLP = 11 USD)
– Campamento Francés, Fantastico Sur [this is a new one, not marked in my trail map; located between Los Cuernos and Italiano]
– Refugio Los Cuernos, Fantastico Sur
– Refugio Chileno, Fantastico Sur
– Campamento Serón, Fantastico Sur
– Refugio Dickson, Vertice (5500 CLP = 9 USD)
– Campamento Los Perros, CONAF/Vertice (5500 CLP = 9 USD)
– Refugio Grey, Vertice (5500 CLP = 9 USD)
– Campamento Torres/Central, Fantastico Sur [next to Hotel Las Torres]
4) Weather, Clothes & Insurance
First of all: in Patagonia you can have basically everything in one day, this means: snow, rain and sun. You'll always have very strong winds to deal with, this means: up to more than 100 km/h. Speaking for the summer season you should be prepared to temperatures until below 0°C. In winter it can be quite cold. I personally recommend to hike during the shoulder season October/November and March/April to avoid the crowds (depending on the exact date you might also not need to book camp sites in advance).
The high season in Torres del Paine lasts from 1st of October to 30th of April, the low season from 1st of May to 30th of September. Though the park is open all year round most trails, camp sites and refugios are closed in winter (May-August). If you still want to hike in winter you need to get in touch with CONAF, come well prepared and consider going with a guide as trails are hard to find after snowfall (there is no maintenance during that time of year).
It's always best to check the weather before you go even though the forecast is not reliable and weather can change quite quick. So: better be prepared for everything. Even in summer I recommend to take a jumper for the colder parts of the trek like the John Gardner Pass. In Winter you should add layers of warm clothes.
Speaking about clothes:
>> find everything in the Patagonia Packing list!
I found the following items most valuable given the harsh conditions in Patagonia:
- 1x good, waterproof Hiking Boots –
- 2 x Hiking Pants, with the option to turn into a short pant (winter: choose a thicker one)
- 1 x Fleece Jacket – highly recommended for every season!
- 1 x waterproof Jacket – my recommendation would be the bright orange one from Marmot to stick out in photos (winter: take a warm waterproof winter jacket or combine with a down jacket)
I also always advise on getting travel insurance as it is important to have you covered in case anything happens throughout your trip. I recommend the insurance by WorldNomads which has always been a reliable choice on my travels as it also covers many outdoor activities e.g. glacier hikes – you can use the calculator to get a price for your trip:
Consider: In February I used to trek with thermal shirt and long pants all the time – when it rained i kept walking (during summer season I recommend bringing a good rain jacket as well as a fleece jacket for the camps). Furthermore I had two of each, this means: walking clothes and dry clothes for the camps – i never mixed it to have always a set of dry clothes in my bag.
5) Which food to take for hiking in Torres del Paine?
When I have been on the trek I saw different kind of strategies – basically it's very individual what to take for a multi-day hike. As I planed for 9 full days my main focus was to pack as light as possible because food will be the heaviest part in your backpack in that case.
Therefore I stuck to (all packed into Zip-Lock bags):
– porridge & dry fruits for breakfast + tea / coffee
– salami, cereal bars, snickers, dry fruits & nuts for lunch (small snacks to eat while short breaks)
– 200g rice or 200g pasta for dinner + sauce (sauce powder or soup powder) + cheese/salami to add more flavour ;)
Moreover it's always nice to have some chocolate and sweeties to treat yourself, also a small amount of alcohol is not a bad idea for cold nights (i took 200ml of pisco – also cool to celebrate the finish of a steep trail).
The second great option I got to try on my recent hiking trip in 2016 is to take lightweight freeze dried meals. Those meals are easy to prepare, they don't take much space and they taste actually not too bad. If you want to go for this option you should definitely buy it at home or online and take it to Chile with you (make sure ingredients are in line with the strict import regulations)!
Tip:
I was drinking the water from the streams – you'll have a stream nearly every 20 minutes when hiking. I simply used my cup to drink the water which has the best quality one can find.
At the campsites and the busier parts of the park you should be careful, go a bit up the stream and consider purifying using a SteriPen to ensure to drink clean water (there are some stupid people washing there dishes in the water which is strictly forbidden and led to problems with water quality in 2016 where several hikers got sick!).
So: just take a small bottle with you for the time in between and to purify water when needed.
6) Costs to calculate (Entrance & Shops)
As mentioned in the beginning the Torres del Paine is stunning and therefore very popular and it knows it – apart from the costs already mentioned for campsites and transportation you should calculate the following as well:
– entrance fee is 21.000 CLP (= 30 USD) for foreigners (children pay 6.000, Chileans pay 6.000 CLP)
– sweeties (M&Ms, chocolate bars) at mini-shops in refugios are between 1.000 – 2.000 CLPs
– soft drinks at mini-shops are between 1.500 and 2.500 CLPs
– beer is between 2.000 and 3.000 CLPs
7) Hiking Routes Torres del Paine: the W, circuit, the Q
If you are still unsure which trek to do and you already have some hiking experience let me tell you: this park is absolutely worth staying for a longer time or doing a longer trek. If you are not short on time think about doing one of the big treks and maybe plan to do one of the more relaxed schedules you find below.
The advantages of doing the full circuit also known as the “O” are that you get to see some incredible landscape, you'll have much less people (the number is restricted to 80, reservation needs to be done in advance), you spend more time in the park and you get to know some great people as you'll meet your fellow hikers each day at the same camping sites.
my itineraries for you
- How to hike the W in Torres del Paine
- Trekking Guide: How to hike the Circuit in Torres del Paine
- The best day tours & day hike in Torres del Paine
Download my Chile Guide incl. TdP itineraries
Backpacking in Chile: my Chile Travel Guide
This is a clear and concise guide book based on my experience from 6 months traveling through Chile.
It includes travel guides for each region of Chile as well as a complete trekking guide for Torres del Paine, plus route itineraries. Checklists are included to help make sure you don’t forget anything.
This book is designed to save you a lot of time & make your trip much easier. Download it now or buy the paperback and take it with you!
more information >>
If you want to continue traveling through Patagonia you should also checkout the Argentinean part:
Backpacking in Argentina: my Argentina Travel Guide
This is a clear and concise 100 page eBook based on my experience from 3 months traveling through Argentina.
The book includes travel guides for the several regions of Argentina as well as a tiny trekking guide for El Chaltén and Ushuaia. Checklists are included to help make sure you don’t forget anything.
This eBook is designed to save you a lot of time & make your trip much easier. Download it now and take it with you!
more information >>
Torres del Paine Trekking Map (waterproof)
I used this map to prepare my itinerary in Torres del Paine, Chile. As it is a waterproof map it is also great to use it on the trek!
buy it on Amazon >>
Trekking Patagonia, Lonely PlanetThis is a must if you plan to hike a few times in Patagonia as this guide has itineraries for several parts of Patagonia and even for Tierra del Fuego. It's a good resource for the popular spots like Torres del Paine and Chaltén as well as the lesser known parts. Highly recommended!
buy it on Amazon >>
8) Which camera gear to bring?
It would be a shame to experience the park without taking pictures as the landscape is outstanding. Have a look at the video below and the photo essay from Torres del Paine to see the results.
GoPro Hero
Since more than 3 years this little genius is my travel companion. Until today I produced more than 75 video episodes with the most versatile camera: it is robust, waterproof, small and easy to handle.
Sony Alpha camera
If you want DSLR quality but don’t want to carry around a heavy DSLR you should get this Sony camera. I really love it as it is easy to handle and takes great photos without you needing to be a professional photographer. This compact interchangeable Lens camera costs less than a DSLR and fits easily in your pocket. If you want awesome photos from your trip to Torres del Paine you will be thankful for this investment later, for sure!
Gorillapod
Mini Tripod – since I’m using the Sony cameras I cannot imagine using it without this flexible travel tripod: small, handy and useful for night shots for both cameras mentioned above.
9) Videos of hiking in Torres del Paine
In 2016 I revisited Torres del Paine and spent around 2 weeks inside the National Park: first I hiked the full circuit (which includes the “W”), next I stayed at the Hotel Las Torres inside the park for a few more days to explore the several day tour options.
My goal was to create a useful documentary to show which options you have exploring the park, what it is like to hike Torres del Paine and what you get to see when doing so. Enjoy!
10) Where to sleep in Puerto Natales
The eco hostel named Yagan House was my home for almost 2 weeks and is the perfect starting point for your hiking adventures. I liked the relaxed atmosphere and the cozy common areas – due to the interior it somehow felt more like a mountain lodge than a usual hostel.
Moreover the owner Paulina and her staff are very sympathetic and helpful: you can book bus tickets, organize other activities like kayaking or trips to El Calafate.
Also the breakfast was great: home made bread, yoghurt, cereals, butter, marmelade, freshly made scrambled eggs, tea and coffee are a good base for your first day of hiking in the park. On top of that you have a lot of extra services like a luggage room, laundry, rental of hiking equipment and a small housebar (beer, wine, pisco sour, hot chocolate, brownies).
Positive: there are 4 bathrooms so you never have to wait, great service, cozy atmosphere, luggage room for your time on the Trek, nice staff
Downsides: the Internet was sometimes very instabile (we had to restart the router quite often)
Prices: Dorm (4 Bed) from 10.000 CLP (= 15 € / 21 USD) , Private from 14.000 CLP (= 22 € / 30 USD)
Address: O'Higgins 584
Special Deal:
I can offer you a great give-away! If you use the discount code “holagringo yagan house” when checking in you get a free laundry per booking. A great chance to start on the trek with fresh clothes or get it clean afterwards while chilling in the cozy living room.
- Hostal Treehouse Patagonia – similar to the Yagan House this hostel offers privates as well as dorms in a very cozy, modern atmosphere.
- Toore Patagonia (***) – those of you who want more privacy should look into booking one of the comfortable, neatly designed bungalows at Toore Patagonia. Great deal!
- for more accommodation options including visitor reviews you should head to the Puerto Natales overview page of Hostelworld (Hostels, B&Bs) and make sure to check the Special Deals over at Booking (Hotels, Lodges)
11) Where to stay inside the park
I got the chance to spend 4 days at Hotel Las Torres Patagonia in 2016 after I finished the circuit trek and used it to explore the spots you don't get to see when hiking. The fact that the area the hotel is located in is a private area owned by the hotel makes it possible to explore this part of the park on horses. My personal highlight was the rather tough horse riding/hiking combination up to the Cerro Paine which is opposite to the Torres and offers a unique view, a tour offered exclusively by the hotel (only 3 groups went up there in 2016!).
The Hotel itself is -hands down- definitely an upscale choice but offers the best location inside the park (perfect base for photographers), great tours and is a good choice for those who want to explore the park with day trips. Though a bit pricey the rooms are comfortable, the food and the bar are very good, also WiFi is included (but not as fast due to the location).
For those who finish the trip here but won't stay at the hotel: you are welcome to have a bite or a drink at the bar which has a lovely view to the Paine Massif before you leave!
other Hotels inside Torres del Paine (Mid-range & Luxury)
All Hotels listed here are pricey but offer great location and excellent services inside the National Park.
- Hotel Lago Grey (***) – located in the westernmost part of the the park the Hotel Lago Grey offers comfort paired with some great options to see the Grey glacier up close and explore some of the most incredible viewpoints in the area.
- Explora Patagonia (*****) – in terms of location and views this Hotel takes the cake as it is situated right next to the Lago Pehoé. Also here you have plenty of tour options to choose from which are mostly included in the room rates. You should get a drink before you checkout the prices though ;)
Ho(s)tels next to Torres del Paine (Budget & Mid-range)
The following options are located right next to the Serrano park entrance just before the Visitor center in Villa Serrano and are way more affordable.
- Vista al Paine Refugio – this solid B&B offers a range of private accommodation options as well as a dorm for those on a tighter budget.
- Pampa Hostel – this cozy, modern hostel offers beds in 4 bed dorms with shared bathroom facilities and has a great view to the mountains of Torres del Paine. A rich breakfast is included which makes it a pretty good deal!
- Konkashken Lodge – is one of the cheapest options in the area but still offers great value with its numerous cozy cabanas and its friendly owners who are there to help you. You can either stay in a private ore at one of the dormitories
12) Guided Trekking Tours
Another option is to book a complete tour – this way you can leave the organization, gear rental, transportation, food and booking of campsites to local experts. Though you pay more you'll get the full package this way including porters and a knowledgable guide. Also here you need to be quick as tours sell fast – my tip would be to go for the circuit trail as your chances are higher to secure a spot (and it is the most awesome route anyway!)
After working with them in Africa (Kilimanjaro), South America (Peru) & Cuba I highly recommend the tours offered by G Adventures as their philosophy and focus on sustainable travel are in line with my personal values. With many years of expertise you can expect a well organized, fun trips in small groups with like-minded travelers:
- W-Trek with G Adventures – 6 day trek including meals, guide, camps, tents/hotel, transport and porters
- “O” Circuit-Trek with G Adventures – 11 day trek including meals, guide, camps, tents/hotel, transport and porters
- Hike Patagonia in depth – active 14 day tour covering the highlights of Patagonia, including the Torres del Paine W trek, El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre) and El Calafate (Perito Moreno glacier) including meals, guide, camps & tents, hotels, transport and porters
- Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego – active 14 day tour covering the highlights of Patagonia, including the Torres del Paine W trek, El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre), El Calafate (Perito Moreno glacier) and Ushuaia. This also includes meals, guide, camps & tents, hotels, transport and porters.
- Discover Patagonia (NatGeo Tour) – complete 14 day Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego tour covering all the highlights in the north (Bariloche, Puerto Varas), the south (Torres del Paine – day tour, Calafate, Chalten) and Ushuaia including exclusive National Geographic expeditions and talks.
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Any tips for hiking in Torres del Paine to add?
If you have any tips or hints feel free to join the conversation – post a comment below and share your experience!
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Disclosure:
My accommodation at the Hotel Las Torres was provided by the hotel due to the fact that I was filming an episode for my TV show and YouTube channel. Nevertheless I wasn't asked to write about my experience here but decided to include it as I liked it and wanted to share another option for those who want to explore more of the park.
All the content I provide from my travels is completely my own – this goes for opinions and views as well as for recommendations.
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German
Great post, Steve. Thanks for the in-depth info.
Thanks – you’re welcome!
Loved this post and your photos, once again, are outstanding…You seem to get better and better with your photography….
Hoping to do some of my own backpackin’ and trekking come the first of this new year…..
Take care and keep up your wonderful posts and photos….
This comes in handy as I am planning a trip to Patagonia. But not before 2015 – so there’s still some time to get thing sorted : )
My wife and I are doing the Q circuit in March 2014. Your site is the best resource we have found. Great job!
Awesome and great choice! Have loads of fun, I’m glad this little guide helped you planning – keep me posted!
I'm at Yagan now. Trekking in TdP in 2 days. Went for the great talk at Base Camp / Erratic today, but still came back to your articles for clarity and good last minute advice
Love to hear that, thanks Zaid – hope you had a memorable time in the park!
Hey Charlie – I used the power bank (it is listed in my gear list – you can find it in the navigation “bags & gear”). It comes with all plugs you need so you can charge your GoPro on the way! I used 3 spare batteries as well.
Enjoy your trip!
Steve,
My wife and I just got back from Patagonia. It was incredible and your guide gave us all the info we needed. We didn’t even bother with the info meeting at the Erratic Rock. Thanks. If you get an email address to us I will send you a link to our pictures when I get them posted.
David
Hey David – thanks for the lovely comment which means really a lot to me as it keeps me motivated to do more of this kind of Guides. I’m glad you liked the hike and came back with memories that will stick for years to come! My mail: backpackerorg@gmail.com
Cheers from Sofia,
Steve
Hi Steve! My husband and I are trying to plan a vacation to hike Torres del Paine in March 2015 and I just wanted to say how much I love your blog. I have experience backpacking in Alaska about 10 years ago when I was living there, but my husband is less experienced and we really haven’t done too much in the last decade. How much hiking experience do you think we need? Would we benefit from a guide? We’d like to do the full circuit and saw that Erratic Rock offers a guided tour for 1200 US per person — is that worth it, you think? Thank you!
Hey Yin – I’m sorry to answer so late but I’ve been traveling a lot meanwhile.
To answer your question: the W-Trek is a great one even for beginners. Most parts are easy to walk – only the last part up to the Torres, up to the mirador in the french valley are a bit tough.
All paths are well marked, it’s actually harder to get lost than to find the way (this info is for the W). So: no need to spend a fortune for a guide if you get the right equipment, plan a bit more time to don’t be in a hurry and prepare a bit before leaving to Chile!
Hi Steve,
In order to camp at any of the free or paid campsites along the W route, do you have to reserve sites in advance or do you simply pay and register for a site when you arrive? We are going in February and wanted to know if it is necessary to reserve camping or if we should wait until our arrival to find spots. Thanks for all the great info.
No need for reserving camp sites – only if you want a bed in the refugios you need to reserve. For me camping has not been a problem on any camp site in the park!
Hi there, Your page is super helpful! I am planning on doing the W Trek with two friends in early Jan 2015. Last minute decision! Heading in from El Calafate direction. Do we require to book camp sites? If not, are are they ever full? Thankyou, K.
No to both – even in the high season I found a spot everywhere ;)
Hi K, I’m planning on doing the W Trek this coming January 2016 and would love any advice as you did it at the same time! How many days did you take? Did you always camp? How heavy were your backpacks?! Tell me more or if you did a blog. Thanks Tabby
Thank you for your post. My husband and I are planning to hike the W trek this Christmas and were worried. We havent made any campsite bookings as yet. We have backpacking experience and were hoping to find availability in the free campsites. (we speak zero Spanish! Will that be a problem?)
Should we book the shuttle from PN to TDP much before or is it okay to wait till the before day and book it through our hostel?
Hey, no worries!
You can even book the bus the day before with your hostel or you simply go to a bus agency in town. Town is more a village and pretty small.
About campsites: I never had a problem to find a free spot, not even in high season. When you arrive in the afternoon at the campsites you have plenty of space to choose from
Sounds like a great christmas plan – so:have fun!
Just ask here so also other readers can read the answers ;)
I did it in a very short time but wouldn’t recommend it – you should always plan with a little buffer due to the John Gardner Pass.
If you want to risk it: have a look at the itineraries of the ‘O’ where I described a short version!
Uh…from El Chalten it’s a long ride and you also have to cross the border which takes a while (they check every bag for vegetables and food due to strict import laws).
If you only have 3 days you should think about a version I didn’t mention: trek from Hotel Torres up to the Torres via Refugio Chileno on the first day, camp at Campamento Torres, get up early and see the towers at sunrise and head back to the hotel and to the park entrance. Have fun!
Hi Steve… as everyone else pointed out, your “how to” guide is awesome and comprehensive- best one I’ve come across yet! Thank you! I am glad to read that it is not necessary to book camping spots in advance. Does that mean you could literally book transportation, get there with all of your gear, and just start trekking, without much planning as to where you’ll stay? Also, we plan to camp without booking in advance, but don’t want to lug too much food around. Will it be possible to eat at the refugios that own the private campgrounds some of the nights? Thank you in advance!
Jenny
Hey Jenny thanks for your feedback!
Sure you can do it like suggested and just take my itinierary. Hiking in TdP is very easy compared to many other treks I did in Patagonia as there is literally mostly only one path to follow.
Camping can be done without booking in advance. Prices at the refugios are very high but you can eat there, just make sure to visit the website of the companies who run it to be 100% safe. When I was there mostly groups ate dinner there so I assume you might have to get in touch as they have limited supplies in the high season.
Enjoy your trip and tell me how it was!
Hi Spencer,
sorry for the late reply! I’ll answer anyway for future readers.
May can be very rough in matters of climate and I generally don’t recommend hiking alone in case of any emergency. Please try to find like minded trekkers in Puerto Natales and do it in a group for this time of the year. For more information about weather and conditions in the park you should get in touch with the CONAF office in Puerto Natales, the rangers there are also very helpful: http://www.conaf.cl/conaf-en-regiones/magallanes/oficinas-regionales/
Thx! Enjoy your travels!
Would it be possible to ONLY eat at the refugios and buy food at the local stores on the circuit, or do we have to bring in food? We will be doing the Q circuit in December/January. Hubby doesn’t want to deal with preparing food!
I think this might be possible but I haven’t done it myself. Only thing I know that it is quite pricey – check the websites mentioned for the companies who run the refugios for more information!
On the other hand I’d say preparing your food should be part of the adventure as it is quite social and you get to know other lovely hikers ;)
Thanks Steve. Very Quick Response!!! We are an older couple (72/60) and are used to trekking in Nepal where food is purchased along the route from various “lodges” (purely a dressed up term for cold, stone hut!). So then we would need to have a camp stove, cooking gear, etc?
Hey Diana – no worries this will be a memorable experience!
I listed all the items I had with me above. In matters of cooking gear I kept it simple and light: I had some gas cans and a light mount to put a small, leightweight pot on (which I also used to eat out of), a fork, spoon and a knife..that’s it. My food was basic but gave me the energy I needed :)
But..again..the Refugios are expensive but offer the possibility to eat there. You should just check with them if you have to make a reservation as they often have groups there and need to plan as they get their supplies delivered by helicopter or horse (there are no roads!). You are aiming a popular season, too – so make sure you don’t end up hungry ;)
Thank you again Steve! Your site is such a wealth of information and your experience in TdP gives great credibility to what you have to say. The refugios are all booked up already, just so you know if anyone asks. Good info on making reservations for dinner though. Don’t know if it will happen that we eat there or not but good to know. Happy trekking!
Thanks so much – have a great trip and tell me how it was when you come back. Cheers to your husband aka “the future TdP chef”. hehe :)
My friends and I were wanting to do the O. We need the flexibility of our own car to get to and from the park for us to do that, otherwise we will lose a few days to the buses and will have to do the W. Are there places in TDP to park your car and leave it for 8-9 nights?
Yes you can go there with your car and there are several options to park your car!
Hi Steve!
This info is super helpful. I was thinking about doing the W from May 9-15 but am worried about two things: weather and services that will be available (things seem to close up after Mar-Apr). I was going to stay in the refugios, but I’m not sure about their availability. Would you recommend against going during this time? Is it going to be more trouble than it’s worth? If not, anything I should be aware of?
If trekking the W at this time isn’t a good idea, anything else in South America I should do? I’m meeting up with friends in Cuzco on the 15th if that gives you a starting point.
Thanks!
This will be pretty late to do that trek as it might be freezing cold. If you meet with your friends in Cusco you might consider the Choquequirao trek which is nearby and beautiful, too!
Hello! I am hoping to hear back form you as you seem pretty knowledgable about Torres del Paine. I have a group of people and we are planning on going the last week of May. I have read several articles about hiking the w, o and q trails during both summer and winter, however I have heard hardly anything about going in fall (May and June). We are going May 20th – June 1st. Do you have any advice? We are prepared to deal with freezing cold weather but not too sure what to expect about everything else.
Hello Cara – this is a tricky one so please do this on your own responsibility.
Even though the park is open in winter, the trails are actually closed – same goes for camps and most of the refugios. If you still want to go you should be an experienced hiker, you should come well prepared and you should have a good knowledge about the place. If you want to go without a local guide or someone who knows the trails you should only do so if there is no snow to cover the trails as there is no maintenance to keep the trails visible in winter!
I just came back from my second time hiking the circuit at the end of march and I’m planning on hiking it in winter next time but I will be accompanied by local friends of mine.
Hi Steve,
I’m planning to do the full circuit, but it seems it’s now a requirement to have a guide for the backside – is it easy to find a local guide once near the park?
Thanks!
Sam
Hi Sam – it is not necessary to have a guide for the backside of the park! Who gave you this information? Though it is a tougher hike I still only consider it to be an average/moderate hike for experienced hikers.
If you wish to book a guide anyway you can find a list of approved guides here: http://www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl/es/noticias/conaf-informa-nomina-de-guias-de-turismo-con-1
Hi Steve,
Thanks a bundle for the information you have posted. In Dec/Jan I plan to do the “O”. I rang
the CONAF office in Pto Natales and they gave me a number for the park. I spoke
to a patient guy at the park over a crackling line (my Spanish is ok but not
great). Assuming I understood correctly, he told me that I did not need to get
special permission to do the “O”. He did not seem to know what I was
talking about when I said that I had read that only 80 people per day were
allowed on the back part of the track. He said I simply had to book the camp
sites for each night along the route and then just turn up and the park and do
the walk. Does this seem correct to you? Or do you think I should try the CONAF
office in Puerto Natales again (and if so, do you know the correct email
address)?
Also, according to the fantastico sur site, there is no
cooking at the camping area at Refugio Chileno. Hence the only option is to
camp and pay US$90 for full catering. Has this changed since you wrote this page or am I missing something?
Thanks again, Scott
First of: I just updated the whole guide recently with all new information.
This regulation is new since this year and was just announced by the end of the past season…so it is really hard to tell how it will be in the upcoming season. I’d recommend to get in touch with CONAF via eMail (address is provided in the camping section above) , pass on your details to get you on a list. Once in Puerto Natales it is always best to go to the CONAF office in town to double check, after all this is South America (things can get lost in translation) and the number of tourists are very high.
In matters of Chileno: this campsite was closed recently as the massive amount of campers had a negative impact on nature (resulting in issues with the water)…I’m not sure when and if they re-open this campsite. The refugio is still in operation and also the free Torres campsite is a good option….another option would be to use the campsite down next to the Hotel Las Torres (hiking up from there and back is a famous day hike).
Please take into account that the refugio also has a shop with snacks, you don’t need to book full catering (I bought sandwiches there).
Hope you have a great time in TdP!
I’m interested in this as well as we’re also planning to do the “O” in January. It doesn’t make sense to reserve all of the sites in advance if we’re not sure if we’ll be able to hike the circuit!
As mentioned already: there is such a high demand that I recommend booking in advance to be able to camp at those campsites. You need to understand that those regulations are needed to preserve the park. The limitation is completely new, this is why right now not everything is in place.
Please get in touch with CONAF directly to ensure your spot on the circuit!
Das gilt wie gesagt für den Circuit Trek – am besten du wendest dich direkt an CONAF über die o.a. eMail-Adresse. Bedenke dabei aber das diese Regelung sehr neu ist und es noch kein wirkliches System für die Registrierung gibt, im Zweifelsfall kannst du dich erst in Pto.Natales dafür registrieren.
Hi Steve great set of information! I will be travelling to South America for 3 months and am planning to travel light (backpacking). Is it possible to do the “O” Circuit with no tents and food i.e eat and stay along the way in the refugios?
Alternatively is it possible to do with a tent but eat along the way?
I also read that you stayed in the Yagan house, is it safe to assume that I can keep a bag there in a locker if I have checked out for those 7-8 days?
I’m planning to do it in December, any help would be much appreciated! thanks in advance.
1. no it is not doable without a tent and food, you need to carry it around on the circuit.
2. eating is only possible at refugios, only if they have capacity and only if you reserve in advance
3. yes
Cheers, have fun!
Hey,
I covered that topic above. You take a bus to Puerto Natales..there are buses running every hour or so. Use your time in Puerto Natales to prepare and buy supplies (at least one night) and the take a bus to the park (there a a few bus companies).
BusSur also provides a direct connection to the Park from Punta Arenas.
Enjoy your trip!
1) right now you need to do the reservation for the O at the CONAF office in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. You should decide in advance what to do because spots are filling up quickly and the capacity is limited.
2) you’ll be fine going solo as you find hiking buddies along the way
cheers
Hey Steve, thanks for all the information. Do you know if there is anywhere to park a car inside the park, perhaps by Hotel Las Torres? Just curious if that is an option.
Yes there is parking at the Hotel Las Torres – more info about parking spots can be found on the official website!
Awesome post, Steve, my girlfriend and I are using this to plan are W trek this December. I have a question and was hoping you could give us some insight. We have already booked our flight and have made reservations at the free campos. We we’re hoping to stay at either Chileno or Los Cuernos but both locations are reserved on the dates we were planning on going… :( Any advice? We’re freaking out a little
Hey Alex,
I recommend getting in touch with fantastico sur for those camps, your alternatives would be Camp. Frances (a longer hike the next day) and Camp Torres.
Have a great hike!
Hm. I’d advice you to call them. Both companies offer their service in English and should be able to help you. The ultimate chance would be in Pto Natales where all of them have an office.
Most of the regulations are fairly new so I think they are just overwhelmed by the amount of requests. I hope this get’s better the closer we get to high season :/
Sure – this is meant for the day hikers and day tour visitors. If you want to hike you’d need to sleep somewhere and camping is only allowed at the official campsites.
Hi Steve, great detailed post. I was wondering if you know are there regular buses from Pudeto to Laguna amarga and if they would be working on the 1st January?
Sure there are the mentioned bus connections inside the park at the times mentioned, please check with the official website to see the timetable and if they are running on the 1st of january!
This is a wonderful resource Steve. Thanks for your time and effort in putting it together. My partner and I are hiking the W from 12th of Dec to 16th of Dec. We are doing the 5 day version and have successfully booked camping at Grey, Paine Grande, Campamento Torres. When trying to book camping at Los Cuernos through Fantastico Sur it came to $180USD because it had to include full board. Do you know what the deal is here, can you camp without paying full board? Alternatively we were looking at camping at Frances.
Unfortunately this is a capacity decision made by fantastico sur. Your alternatives would be Francés or Italiano, ending up with a longer hike the next day!
Thank you for the great post, this has been a great starting point for my planning.
You mention that we need to reserve to do the full circuit but I am unable to find a site that allows me to do so, without joining a guide.
Right now it means you’d need to have all your reservations for the campsites in order to get a permission when entering the park.
Who knows when the John Gardner Pass approx. closes? Somehow I cannot find this anywhere. Thanks!
What do you mean? It is only closed when the weather conditions are too rough. Depending on the time of year you need to consider the trail closing times by CONAF.
Hi Steve,
I’m looking into doing this trek this summer (January/February). Would it be possible to do it without a guide with no multi-day hiking experience? We’ve done some single-day circuits around Bariloche, Argentina last year, and are young (25/27) and in good physical state. Would you say the trails are doable/safe for two girls with no hiking experience alone?
Would we need to buy a GPS? Is a satellite phone necessary in those months or are there enough people passing through to get help in case of an emergency?
Thank you so much!
Hey, this park is the perfect playground even without much hiking experience. Just come prepared and fit. No need for guides, gps or satelite phone. Hope you have reserved everything already as this is the most popular time in the park.
Hi!
Thanks for all your great advice! It’s really helpful. We are currently planning our w trek in Torres del Paine and unfortunately just now realizing that we are late with booking camping spots. We are planning to bring camping gear from Puerto Natales and have successfully booked the first three out of four nights.
Torres (free) and central (fantastic sur) are, according to the websites, fully booked. That leaves us with a very expensive option of El Chileno. Do you have any experience with just going there and getting a spot, or are they actually fully booked as stated online? Or do you know of any alternatives where we can camp on the fourth night and still make it up to the Torres?
Thanks! Lene & Markus
In high season you should definitely have a reservation – as you are late you’d need to go with the options available. This time of the year is simply too popular ;)
That is correct for now – you don’t need an extra permit!
Hi,
the full circuit is an incredibly beautiful hike. There is just one part which is a bit challenging in matters of heights (I also have a fear of heights but managed to do it twice) which is located between Paso and Refugio Grey. You can see this part in the video as well, it is just about 5-10 minutes of the trail where you need to make sure that you only look up :)
This has been immensely helpful! However, I started planning the camping reservation side of things it seems a bit late… The CONAF site says NOTHING is available until Christmas and my boyfriend and I are planning on hiking the full circuit 12/12-12/17 or so… That means that the free Torres and Paso campgrounds aren’t available… Do they ever free up/can we still bank on getting a spot there? Or should we make reservations for other places? (Push from Dickson to Grey, then from Frances to Central Torres). Kind of a bummer because it would be nice to hike right at the Torres site to get sunrise… We are SUPER minimalists and are trying to do this on the cheaper side. Very fit hikers and trail runners with good mountain/climbing experience, but we are blown away by the tourist presence for even the free camping! Last minute advice???